Tote Hose: When What You Say Meets What You Wear

It is said that knowledge of languages is the doorway to wisdom. That it’s the road map of a culture. To speak another language has been likened to possessing another soul. I try conjuring such heightened enlightenment, no doubt fought for by our ancestors, but it stealthily escapes me as we walk through the small medieval German town of Buttenheim. The cobblestones of the 16th century, born from an earlier Karl the Great decreed superhighway, tell the story of a bygone hustle of trafficking and trading,…

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A LESSON FROM THE TRACK

“I can imagine lots of couples do something like that for their 25thwedding anniversary, why would you go to an exotic Island to relax when you can walk a 430km trail!” The response, sweating sarcasm, from my old sports teacher, at a chance meeting on a 25km training hike. Romantic, sand soaked, sun bathed, blue water- bliss 25-year wedding anniversary celebration options never appeared on our ‘trip advisor’ as we considered the challenge of a long- distance hike. Sifting through alternatives to the heavily trodden El…

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PATHWAYS AND DOORWAYS

Absorbed into the trail, my footsteps join the collage of those who have walked before me, documenting my transient participation in deep time. My personage is enshrouded by a mystery of greatness. My thoughts centre around a vista of heroes, whose legend clings to trees, drips down rock faces, clacks on cobblestones, flows richly in rivers, and breaths in the valley-draping mist. Their stories shape direction, blaze trails and create pathways for precedent. Horizons scaped with valour, inspiration, discovery, innovation, perspicacity. They were the vanguards of…

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A Bodacious Bayreuth Babe

“It’s not fair. It’s not fair!” complained Princess Friederike Sophie Wilhelmine of Prussia to her parents. “I want to be Queen of England. It’s not fair! I won’t go to Bayreuth!” “Well, your mother’s to blame for that one” replied Willie’s father Frederick William 1 of Prussia. “It’s Bayreuth for you after all her tricks with the royal family, so forget England and the House of Hanover!” For a larger than life comeback, a phoenix rising, dreams - dashed and history made saga, the bodacious babe…

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IN A COFFEE CUP

Moving up to the Drive Thru window, I order my regular soy cappuccino. “Would you like a Wallfahrt with that? Some Bohemia? A Warsaw Pact? Honey? Bread? Or perhaps Red or White Main Water?” With no knowledge of the ingredients, I consider the options. A pinch of Bohemia requires a crash course in Kingdoms, Reichs and Republics, of noblemen and Nazis. Are the Germans, Hungarians and Austrians in or out? Can the Sudeten and Egerland Germans stay or must they go? We’d have to draw some…

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SIMPLY SLOWLY

Summarizing slow living: ‘You see stuff, hear stuff, learn stuff, connect stuff, appreciate stuff.’ For want of an ideologically saturated, nausea inducing attempt at describing a commonly cliched state of gratitude, mindfulness, contemplation and solace; simple is best. Simple is transparent and simple resonates. It sits well with the territory; the tractors, the old towns, the church turrets, the corn fields, village fountains and the ever - present tabby. Simple is what we have strapped to our backs, stuffed in our mouths and sets the unassuming…

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OF HISTORY AND HOPE

“Yes, across Europe, this wall will fall. For it cannot withstand faith; it cannot withstand truth. The wall cannot withstand freedom.” Ronald Reagan, West Berlin, 1987. “The wall will be standing in 50 and even 100 years.” GDR Head of State Erich Honecker East Berlin, January 1989. “It comes into effect according to my information, immediately.” Günter Schabowski, East Berlin, November 9th, 1989. “Now what belongs together will grow together.” Willi Brandt (Berlin’s Mayor), November 10th, 1989. “The wall was not brought down by Washington, Bonn…

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LEAVE IT AND TAKE IT

  There are stories here of ancient times, deep concealed caves, underground lakes, Jurassic Dolomite outcrops, bloody battles, wayfarers, pilgrims and faith transformed. Peoples have peregrinated through the valleys of the Franken Jura, this Fränkische Schweiz for centuries. We connect with their footsteps and weave our trail in its magnificent history. Beneath rocky limestone outcrops we leave laughter. On fortress peaks we leave awe. Along rivers windy we leave stories. In deep caverns we leave intrigue. Across rich green fields we leave gratitude.  At town squares…

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Schnitzel with Noodles

The soothing symphony of cowbells settle in the soul, The crisp sharp lines of mountain peaks deliver a sense of whole. Crystal lakes like diamonds shine glaciers ancient and old, Dazzling days and freezing nights the best of warm and cold. Herds in celebration mark a season turned, As shepherds drive their cattle down a winter break they’ve earned. Festivities of traditional dress, brezen and beer daze, A livelihood from cheese and milk of Hirten and Berg ‘Käs’. Balconies billowing red geraniums bright offset against fields…

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